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Just beyond the Wawona Road intersection on Southside Drive, the wind blown Bridalveil Fall becomes visible through the trees. Just to the right of the waterfall, the Leaning Tower rock formation rises, jutting and tilted over the valley. On the left of the road is another spectacular view - the seasonal Ribbon Fall slicing through the air for 1,612 feet - the longest, single - drop waterfall in North America. Straight ahead, the trees frame a view of El Captain, one of the largest, exposed, granite monoliths in the world. The Heart of El Capitan, an area where the rocks have fallen away in a heart shape, is clearly visible from this vantage point. In spring, if there is snowmelt or rain, the seasonal Horsetail Fall pours off El Captain's east side shoulder. At sunset in the weeks near February, the setting sun hits this waterfall, turning it blazing yellow, orange and pink.

Lawns are smooth, living carpets that add beauty and recreational space to your home. The benefits of a healthy lawn go beyond the obvious. As your grass grows, it helps the environment by stabilizing soil and reducing air pollution, noise, heat, dust, and glare. Surveys show that an attractive, well-landscaped lawn can even add to the value of your home.

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Bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, carpetgrass, and bahiagrass are classified as warm-season perennial grasses. All except bahiagrass are mostly recommended for lawns in the piedmont and coastal plain of North Carolina. They grow best in the summer, go dormant in the fall at the first heavy frost, turn brown, and then green up slowly the following spring. For this reason, they usually perform better the farther east and south you go in those regions. Warm-season grasses are best planted in late spring and early summer. Unlike cool-season grasses, some warm-season grasses must be planted either by sod or other vegetative means because seeds either are not available or do not result in uniform stands. Warm-season grasses are usually seeded or planted as a single variety (monoculture) rather than in blends and mixtures.

Seeding: Cool-season grasses are best seeded from mid-August to October 1, depending on location (see Tables 2a, 2b, and 2c). Seeding beyond these dates increases the chance of failure caused by winter injury. Spring or late-winter seedlings are often less than satisfactory because the seedling roots do not have time to become well established before the heat and drought of summer. If seeding of a cool-season grass is not accomplished in the fall, your best alternative date for the piedmont is mid-February to early March. Coastal plain areas would be seeded two weeks earlier, whereas the mountain areas would be seeded two weeks later.

Sodding: Warm-season grasses are best established by sodding at the same dates suggested for seeding, about April until July 1. Sod will not produce roots unless the soil temperature exceeds 55F for several weeks. Professional sod installers have been successful in establishing lawns beyond those dates, but care must be given to ensure that the soil does not dry out.

* Seeding beyond these dates increases the chance of failure. Sod consisting of cool-season grasses can be installed any time the ground is not frozen. Warm-season grasses can be installed as long as soil temperature exceeds 55F.a 1 square yard of turf pulled apart is equivalent to 1 bushel of sprigs.b Often plugged using 3 square yards of turf cut into 2-inch squares on 12-inch centers to plant 1,000 sq ft.

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Sodding is a very effective way to renovate either cool- or warm-season lawns, but it is especially useful if the lawn is a warm-season turfgrass and the damage is concentrated in a few large areas. When renovating warm-season turfgrass with sod, the damaged grass should be replaced with the same cultivar to help ensure a uniform appearance. Once the damaged turf is removed, prepare the area as you would for a new planting. Placing sod on top of dead vegetation will result in failure.